That one swimsuit you’re not going to want to miss. The Collette monokini swimsuit, it’s fun & flirty with lots of room for play. Check out the free pattern below.
Crocheting swimsuits can sometimes be a bit daunting. Some people have yet to even own a pair. Well, that’s because they fear it will sag when it gets wet, it is see-thru, or look too hippie aka “old-fashion”.
But that’s not what we’re all about. It’s all about easy construction and a gorgeous outcome.
The idea of a one-piece swimsuit was always on the list and I wanted to create something simple yet timeless. The front panels offer flexibility around the bust yet enough coverage, without having to stitch up actual cups.
The bottom panel hugs the body in a “high-waisted” form, perfect for splashing around under the sun. And to prevent water weight and sag, the correct swimsuit yarn is essential.
This one-piece monokini is constructed from the front bottom piece to the back and then worked up. Simple Half Double Crochet stitches are all you need to know! This Pattern also includes 9 sizes from XS – 5XL.
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Tools and Materials:
Yarn weight: DK Category 3
Brand: Cascade Fixation
Gauge: 24 Hdc Sts x 16 Rows = 4”x 4”
No. yarns (balls): XS[S/M/L/XL] [2XL/ 3X/ 4XL/ 5XL] – 3[3/3/4/4] [4/5/5/5] balls
Skill: Beginner to Intermediate
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Things to Note:
- Prepare gauge to get the right size.
- This swimsuit is stretchable when using mentioned yarn
- Turning chain does not count as a stitch unless mentioned otherwise.
- Hip size refers to the circumference of the widest part of your bum area and not the actual finished garment.
- Monokini length and cups are adjustable
- Model is 5’5” and wearing size S for reference
- Refer to the measurement chart here
- Abbreviation page available in English US format
- Your hip size: XS [S/ M/ L/ XL] [2XL/ 3XL/ 4XL/ 5XL] – 32 [34/ 36/ 40/ 44] [48/ 53/ 55/ 57/ 62] inches or 86 [91.5/ 101.5/ 111.5/ 122] [134.5/ 139.5/ 144.5/ 157] cm (size up if you are in between sizes)
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Colette Monokini Swimsuit Crochet Pattern
PART 1: Front to Crotch to Back
- .Foundation Row: Ch 48[50/ 52/ 54/ 56] [58/ 60/ 62/ 64] + Ch 1, turn
- Row 1: On the 2nd Ch from hook, work a Hdc St and across, Ch1 turn
- Row 2: Hdc2tog 2x, Hdc across until the last 5th St, Hdc2tog 2x, Ch 1 turn
- Row 3 – 5: Rep Row 2 for 3 more rows. Ch1 turn
- Row 6: Hdc2tog, Hdc across until the last 3rd St. Hdc2tog, Ch 1 turn
- Row 7: Rep Row 6 for 10 [10/ 11/ 12/ 13] [13/ 14/ 15/ 16] more rows. (10 [12/ 12/ 12/ 12 ][14/ 14/ 14/ 14] sts)
- Next Row Crotch: Hdc same number of Sts across for 10 [12/ 13/ 14/ 15] [17/ 18/ 19/ 20] rows. Ch 1 turn
- Next Row: Work2Hdc in the 1st St, Hdc across until the 2nd last St, 2Hdc. Ch 1 turn
- Next Rows: Repeat step 8 increase for 26[ 28/30/ 32/ 34] [ 36/ 38/ 40/ 42] total rows until the entire length reaches 13 [14/ 15/ 16/ 17] [18/ 19/ 20/ 21] inches or 33 [35.6/ 38/ 40.6/ 43] [45.7/ 48/ 50.8/ 53] cm ** Do not bind off**
PART 2: Join sides
- From the last Hdc St, Ch 15 [15/ 16/ 21/ 26] [30 /37/ 42/ 49] Slst through FRONT sides 1st St. Bind off
- Insert hook through the last Hdc St on the same row of the BACK side, draw up a loop and Ch 15[15/ 16/ 21/ 26] [30 /37/ 42/ 49], Slst through the FRONT sides last St of the 1st row, Ch 1, turn You should have approx. 17.5 [18.5/ 19.5/ 21.5/ 23.5] [25.5/ 28/ 30/ 32.5 ] inches or 44.5 [47/ 49.5/ 54.6/ 59.7] [64.8/ 71.1/ 76.2/ 82.6] cm hip width when fully stretched outwards. If not adjust accordingly
- Hdc through the 1st St and around, Slst to join, Ch 1 turn (*We will turn our work at every new row and not work in the round )
- Rep Step 3 for a total of 14 [14/ 14/ 12/ 12] [10/ 10/ 8/ 8] rows. You should have 10 [10.5/ 11/ 11/ 11.5] [11.5/ 12/ 12/ 12.5] inches or 25 [27/ 28/ 28/ 29] [29/ 30/ 30/ 32] cm in total height from crotch . * Add or remove more rows if preferred. 1 Inch/ 2.5cm = 4 row. Bind off
- Find the middle point on the BACK side, and count 23 [25/ 26/ 29/ 31] [34/ 37/ 40/ 43] Stst to the left and again to the right of the center line and place a stitch marker (SM) on both ends. (see image 2)
- Row 1: Facing the BACK side, insert hook through the left SM and Ch 1. Work Hdc on same St and across until the next SM. Ch 1 turn (see image 3)
- Row 2 Decrease: Hdc2tog 2x, Hdc across until the last 5 Sts, Hdc2tog 2x, Ch 1 turn
- Row 3 – 6: Rep Row 2 for 4 more rows, Ch 1 turn
- Row 7 – 10: Hdc across for 4 more rows, Ch 1 turn
PART 3: Flower motif
- Row 11: Find the middle point on the FRONT side and place a SM. Work Hdc Sts until the 4th St before the SM. Ch5, Tc on the SM, Ch 5, Sk 3 Sts, Hdc on the 4th St after the SM, Hdc across, Ch 1 turn
- Row 12: Hdc until the last 4th St, Ch5, work 1 Sc on the last Ch, Sc on the Tc St, Sc on the next Ch, Ch 5, Sk 3 Sts, Hdc on the 4th St across, Ch 1 turn
- Row 13: Hdc until the last 4th St, Ch5, work 1 Sc on the last Ch, Sc 3, Sc on the next Ch, Ch 5, Sk 3 Sts, Hdc on the 4th St across, Ch 1 turn
- Row 14: Hdc till the last St, Ch5, Sk 1 St, Sc 3, Sk 1 St, Ch 5, Hdc the 1st St and across, Ch 1 turn
- Row 15: Hdctill the last St, Work 3 Hdc Sts on Ch, Ch3, Sk 1 St, Tc on the 2ndSt, Sk 1 St, Ch3, work 3 Hdc Sts on Ch, Hdc on the next St and across, Ch 1 turn
- Row 16 – 17: Hdc across for 2 more row, Ch 1 turn
* You may add more rows here to determine how high/low you would like the cleavage to be. Every 4 rows = 1 inch /2.5cm . (Note: material will stretch)
PART 4: Split top for cups & Make ties
- Row 18: Find the middle point on the FRONT side and place a SM. From the last St, *(Hdc2tog, Hdc across until the last 3rd St before marker, Hdc2tog, Ch 1 turn)
- Next Rows: Rep (*) until you have 2 Sts remaining.
- Last row: Before completing the last Hdc2tog St, add ties by joining a second yarn then close the last Hdc2tog St by pulling through both yarns. Work 100 double chain, (Check out: How to make ties) bind off
- Rep on the other side.
- Insert hook through the last rows post where the top splits (see image 5), attach 2 yarns and chain 100 to make back tie.
- Rep on the other side.
- Bind off
Part 5: Inserting Rubberband (watch Video Tutorial)
- On the last st RS, place rubber band at the back of the row.
- Work a Sc over and around the band
- The elastic band should be between Sts
- Cont to Sc around the band
- Before closing St, stop approx 2 in/ 5cm and pull elastic band slightly on both ends.
- Tie 2 knots
- Cont to Sc around the band hiding both band and knot. Slst to close.
- Snip off remaining band and weave in loose ends.
- Best to use round elastic band.
- Turn to the BACK, and insert hook through the last St, where the SM was.
- Place rubber band behind row and Sc across and around rubber band (see image 6)
- Pull firmly and tie a double knot on both ends of elastic band. Snip off access.
- Bind off and weave in all loose ends.
If you are looking for the entire tool used to make this Colette Monokini Swimsuit crochet pattern, check them out here below:
- 2.25 mm Clover Amour Crochet Hook
- Cascade Fixation Yarn in Fern
- Elastic Rubber Band
- Collette Monokini Pdf Pattern file
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